Wild Comfort

By happy coincidence, it’s also the time of year when deer hunting has traditionally produced an ample supply of venison. Wild deer meat is widely available around Virginia, assuming you are licensed to hunt or are friendly with a generous soul who is. As you may have noticed, just by driving around and trying to avoid hitting deer in your car, they seem to be everywhere. In fact, during the 2024–25 deer season, Virginia’s hunters reported harvesting more than 200,000 of the creatures. 

Since I am not a hunter, I often rely on the kindness of my friends. And while, truth be told, I have been known to purchase farm-raised deer from New Zealand, I much prefer the gift of Virginia venison. Leaner than beef and full of nutrients, venison provides a healthy protein source with a mild, rich flavor. Therefore, having a few venison dishes up your sleeve can be a marvelous addition to any Virginian’s culinary repertoire. 

This time of year I’m always on the lookout for my generous pals and, if I’m lucky, for various cuts of venison to start making their way into my clutches. Depending on what cut it is, I have different ingredients and techniques at the ready. If it’s venison tenderloin, then it means I reach for my trusty juniper berries. If it’s ground venison, I can’t go wrong with the chili that inevitably beckons. I do have a pal who takes her stash to her members-only club, where the chef prepares venison chili for her. She then stows it away in her freezer for just the right occasion. However, I find that cooking it at home is easy and satisfying to produce. So, why not just say yes to the friend who offers you part of their precious stash — and easily prepare this quintessential winter treat?

Clare’s Venison Chili

Serves 6

Ingredients

4 slices bacon, chopped

2 pounds ground venison

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons cumin

4 teaspoons chili powder

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 (14.5-ounce) can fire-roasted diced tomatoes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 fresh bay leaves

1–2 (12-ounce) bottles brown ale

Salt and pepper

2 cups cooked kidney beans, drained and rinsed

Grated sharp cheddar cheese and chopped scallions for serving

Instructions

In a large soup pot, fry bacon over medium heat. Add venison and brown. Add onion and garlic and continue to cook for 5–7 minutes. Add spices and cook for 5 more minutes. Stir in tomatoes, tomato paste, bay leaves, and beer. Salt and pepper to taste. Turn heat to low and simmer for 3 hours or until the venison is tender. Add more beer as needed. Stir in beans.

Serve in bowls. Top with cheese and scallions.